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Showing posts with label dove tails. Show all posts
Showing posts with label dove tails. Show all posts

Thursday, September 2, 2010

Have questions on log home building TERMS?

Log Home Building Information C. Reinke 
interviews Mike Hompertz of
PATRIOT LOG HOME BUILDERS 
and discusses log home building terms such as butt and pass, dove tail, Swedish cope and others.



A few quick useful Terms
BEAM POCKET -- A notch in a wall or other member to receive the end of a beam.

BUTT AND PASS -- Term used to describe the corners formed when one log stops or butts and the other log extends past the corner or passes. The corners alternate as they progress upward.

CANTILEVER -- A projecting joist or beam, where one end is not supported, used to extend a floor or deck. They can also be decorative.

COLLAR TIE -- Horizontal board or beam between opposing rafters to provide protection against wind uplift, installed in the upper third of the rafters.

DORMER -- The framed projection in a sloping roof.

DOVETAIL CORNERS -- These corners are cut into a wedge shape so that the upper and lower dovetails on the logs interlock.



DRAW SCHEDULE -- Schedule of payments made to builder or contractor as construction work progresses.

DRAW-KNIFE -- A woodworking tool with a knife-edged blade set between two handles. It is used by drawing it along a log to peel the bark or shave it down.

DRY ROT -- Term used to indicate rotten, crumbly wood. Actually a misnomer since the fungi that cause the damage require moisture.

FLASHING -- Waterproof material used to protect joints or materials from moisture, used around windows and doors, around chimneys, where roofs intersect and along the inner edge of decks and porches.

FLOOR JOISTS -- Framing that supports the floor by resting on lower walls, girders or beams.

FLUE -- The chimney or duct used to direct exhaust gases from a fireplace, water heater, furnace or boiler to the outside.

GABLE -- Triangular-shaped section of end walls underneath the peak of the roof line.

GIRDER -- A horizontal structural member designed to carry heavy loads.

GREEN WOOD -- Usually used to refer to a recently-cut tree, it is technically wood that has a fiber moisture content of 28% or higher.

HEADER -- A framing member that acts as a beam and supports a load suspended over an opening.

HEARTH -- Area in front of a fireplace; can be raised or flat.

HEWING -- Flattening or working a log with a draw-knife or axe.

HIP -- The external angle formed by the junction of two sloping sides of a roof, as opposed to a valley.

I-BEAM -- Steel beam used for structural support. It has a cross-section shape looks like the capital letter I.

I-JOIST -- Engineered floor joist with flanges of 2x material and the web made of OSB. Cross-section shape looks like the capital letter I.

KILN-DRIED -- Forced, artificial drying of logs or lumber to reach a certain moisture content, typically 15 percent or less.

LIEN WAIVER -- Legal document signed by sub-contractors stating that they have been paid for a job and cannot put a lien on the property.

LINTEL -- A horizontal structural member spanning a wall opening.


MORTISE AND TENON -- A method of joining two pieces of wood where the tenon is the male part and the mortise or notch is the female member.This term is used more in timber framing.

NOTCH -- An angle or divot cut into a log, especially used at corners to interlock them for strength and weather-resistance.

PURLIN -- Horizontal structural member spanning perpendicular to a roof system.

RIDGE BEAM -- A structural beam or engineered lumber designed to support the upper ends of the rafters and carry the roof load along with the walls.

RIDGE BOARD -- A horizontal member installed between the upper ends of the rafters, not designed to carry a roof load.

RIDGE VENT -- Air vents along ridge line of roof to provide a means of escape for heat and moisture.

STRINGER -- Angled sides of a staircase, supporting stair treads, AKA carriage.

STUD -- Wood framing members providing the support in a wall system.

SWEDISH COPE -- Method of cutting concave section on upper log to rest on the convex portion of lower log.

TRUSS -- A framework of structural lumber for spanning between load-bearing walls.


TURNKEY -- Ready to move into, all aspects of the build are handled by one entity.

WAINSCOTING -- The covering applied to the lower portion of a wall between the baseboard and chair rail.


A few more older terms , not much used in today's industry but useful for vintage
Log Cabin Terms
  • . Single pen - A log dwelling consisting of one room.
  • . Double pen - Any log house consisting of two log rooms.
  • .Dog Trot House - A double pen log house separated by an open passage way covered by a single roof.
  •   Saddlebag House - A central chimney double pen log house.
  •   Hand Hewn Log - A log that has been flattened on the sides with an adze or broad axe.
  •   Hand planed - The process by which lumber was smoothed before machinery.
  •   Ceiling Joist - The beams which the upstairs floors are laid on.
  •   Pit Sawn - The process of cutting lumber from trees with a two-man saw; one man on top of the log and one man underneath in a "pit" on the other end of the saw.
  •   1-1/2 Story - Typical term for an Appalachian style log cabin meaning that your upstairs log wall is only about waist high You get your usable height from a peaked ceiling.
  •   Caplog - The top log on a log house which the rafters rest on; also, called plate log.
  • .Pole Rafter - A rafter left in the round, unhewn.


For addition terms this is a very useful log home Dictionary

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Hochstettler log home under construction


THE HUDSON kit



MIKE HOMPERTZ of

PATRIOT LOG HOME BUILDERS


608 547 4129

The most recent log home that I have built in the rural country side near Mauston Wisconsin for a husband and wife as their vacation/hunting home. On this home I charged $18.00 a square foot. I typically charge $20.00 sq.ft. However, since this home, is more or less in my back yard, I was able to lower the cost. I stayed on site with my truck camper. This way I am able to watch over material and my tools while on site. Since this homeowner does not live in the location of his vacation home , he had increased security. I often, if conditions allow, stay on the job site,this lowers overall costs for me, which I then pass on to the homeowner. As a log home builder, Hochsetler milling is the log home supplier on this home which I built in Wisconsin. Visit the Hochsetler Mill on line.
Square footage is about 1700. It is a three bedroom, 2 bath home , with a great room and loft. This log home company is builder and homeowner friendly. I have built many Hochsetler homes during my career,they are one of my favorite to build. The kits provide structural and aesthetic beams which gives the feel of the traditional log home.



This is the two story back with walk out basement.You can clearly see the beams protruding from the bottom of the roof . I began to build this home the beginning of October 2009. We encounter our fair share of bad weather, yet the "dry in" was completed in the first week of December. About 6 weeks .












The inside of the beam floor and roof system,with tongue and groove ( t/g) on all floors and ceilings. Full log gables and dormers give this home a clean , rustic earthy log home style.










This is a nice view of the under beam porch roof which you can see is not only decorative but structural. Oh, that's me on my cell phone talking to a potential log home owner.

I couldn't wait til this wood fireplace was installed, as you can see it is already giving us plenty of warmth while we continue the finish work. I built and designed the fireplace mantle built out of Doug fir beams. Note how I gem cut the ends. I provide the service of installation of fireplaces and will do mantles. For instance I managed to save material from the stairs, posts and beams and used this in the facade and mantle.






When I build I am always conscious and very frugal with my homeowners material.Often due to nearly complusive planning ahead, I am able to save excess material and supply plenty of ideas of what we can do with it to enhance their log home, from accenting beams with trim to building, custom doors, to a log pinic table for their out door porch.












This is the inside of the beam rafter and full logs of the dormer on the second floor. Initially the homeowner was unsure about full log in dormers. From my experience , when this option is pursued, it eliminates several steps and believer it or not saves on material.












When one sees dormers on a log home they are rarely full log, rather they are stick frame, plywood and half log siding which requires insulation, vapor barrier and tongue and groove or drywall.This homeowner is thrilled that he took this option. I am one of the few builders who recommend and build both full log gables and dormers.


These are the beam stairs that I put in that go from the main floor to the loft. This is often considered an extra in my building bid and is part of the Hochsetler Deluxe package.





I will be beaching this home and staining it in the spring, and installing the metal roof. This winter I will be installing the hard wood floors and finish trimming windows and doors and other interior finish items, all which I will be posting as I go. Questions call 608 547 4129 and ask for MIKE.

Take a look at the gables, the part above the first floor, when I refer to full log gable, that means that complete logs go all the way up, rather than what the diagram shows, with the half log siding.






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